Here are some pictures of the shim dimensions. Hopefully this can help you verify if it will work with your craftsman saw.
I was watching his channel when he was making sketchup videos of making 2×4 chairs. Very kind of him to talk about my puzzles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAAUDLWzOmY&t=228
I followed this wonderful guide: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/aws-lightsail-upgrade-ubuntu-16-04-lts-to-18-04-lts/
I rebooted without taking note of an sshd_config problem. Of course I was no longer able to ssh into the instance.
I reverted to an earlier snapshot
Started the process over again.
After the update finished and asked me to reboot I refused and then fixed my sshd_config file:
$ sudo sed -i ‘s/^Ciphers .*/Ciphers +aes256-cbc,aes192-cbc,aes128-cbc/’ /etc/ssh/sshd_config
Now I get:
Welcome to Ubuntu 18.04.2 LTS (GNU/Linux 4.15.0-1035-aws x86_64)
when I use ssh.
Which is great! I upgraded to Ubuntu 18.04 LTS and was able to head off a breaking change to SSH that happens with the upgrade.
I thought I would never see the day that this would arrive. I thought for sure that they would fight this till the end of time. I got my gift card from Harbor Freight to the tune of $186.25. Wowza! What should I go get!?!? Thank you Jeffrey Beck.
The best advice I can give is to take the riving knife off, take the rails off altogether, turn over the assembly onto a towel or cardboard box, flip the saw over on it’s top onto some cardboard, remove the side panels, remove the back panel, dust cover, and then you should have enough access to the screws and guide holder. I would stay away from using power tools for the rest of the assembly. The screw heads seem to be softer than I would expect so be careful not to strip them.
For good measure pick up a couple spare: don’t ask me why I know!
8-32 X ¾” Pan head Machine screw.
10-24 x 1” Pan head Machine screw.
To avoid much frustration when it comes time to get the shims to stay put as you are assembling it I suggest using painter’s tape on the top tabs of each flat shim and both top and bottom for the angled shims. The material I have made the shims out of is, in my opinion, more resilient so you should not see the problem happen again where the shim will eventually drop out.
See the video for placing the shims frustration free. Tighten down the screws slowly, be patient. Once the bearing is seated all the way in the bracket you can then place the smaller screws into the black bearing holder plate with little frustration.
I highly suggest that you use some form of dust collection to keep the build up from wedging the shims. MDF is particularly a problem because of the quantity of fine dust that is generated.
Also, whenever I change the blade or take it out for cleaning I take the time to inspect the area to ensure that everything is working fine and that no build up is threatening the shims.
I think that the original shims are particularly damaged at the end of travel of the lift mechanism. Be careful when approaching these limits.
It would be great if you find something that helped you greatly I would love to hear about it.
This procedure will also work for the Crafstman 315.228110
A good tear down video of a BT3100 which is very similar to the BT3000 except that it uses the thicker black shims.
This picture shows the difference between new BT3100 shims on the left and old BT3000 shim on the right. They are not interchangeable. You can upgrade the saw to use the newer shims but you would have to find a replacement part for the guide holder (0181010110). I have heard there is mixed results with this approach.
Note: I have been asked if the flat shims are any different between the BT3000 and the BT3100. My conclusion is that they are the same based upon this reference page: https://mastertoolrepair.com/10-in-table-saw-parts-bt3100-p-802397.html
Flat shims for the BT3100 are listed as the same part number as the BT3000 and referenced as the shims for the BT3000.
Reshared post from +Alec Steele
I embarked on a seemingly endless task of making Lincoln Logs using a guide from Pocket83 (hosted by www.Ibuldit.ca). Pocket83 suggested using an extremely thin kerf blade to cut the #2 pine into boards that were 10 ½” wide. I cut 9 boards from each 8’ board. I routed the dados for all the notches in the boards. I fashioned logs from each board and then rounded them over resulting in 4-notch logs. Some stayed this length, and some were cut into 3-notch, 2-notch, and single-notch logs. Many small remnants remained that I glued together for the purpose of fencing, borders or whatever one imagines. Pocket83 even has a great guide for making gable end pieces in such a way as to be modular.
Then it was time to stain nearly 500 pieces of Lincoln Logs! They turned out great! If I had to do it over again, I might thin the stain a little so they wouldn’t turn out so dark. Take a look at the pictures below to see how I created a unique Lincoln Log set for my grandson.
The one item that has me the most excited is working on the jointer base. The metal base is just too big to scoot next to my wife’s car. The wooden one, while narrower, will still have adequate lateral stability to stay upright. Pictures below are just the beginning of the cart/case. As I build it, I see that my plans need to be adjusted. Hopefully I can get the project finished up shortly!
I would love to have one of these some day. The K5 Pocket Hole Jig by Kreg. It seems to be the most versatile and has great ease of use! Someday I will also get the shelf pin jig.